by White storks sit on samphire beds; Colonies of pink flamingos strutting across the water; and fresh oysters are served. It may not be what you imagine when you think of Morocco, a North African country known for its exotic souks, dramatic deserts and lush Atlas Mountains. But that is exactly what you will find in Oualidia.
This little gem on the Atlantic coast is Morocco’s best kept secret and La Sultana is the ideal place to rest your feet and enjoy a dose of nature.
Where
Even the most experienced globetrotters would probably have a hard time telling you where Oualidia is (I had never heard of it myself before my visit). But for locals, this small village has long been a popular gathering place to enjoy the cooler temperatures, surf, and enjoy fresh seafood at several of its seaside restaurants.
Whitewashed houses line sleepy streets that lead to the coast, where you can watch huge waves crash against giant rocks from the cocoon of a much quieter lagoon separated from the sea by sand dunes.
The 12km stretch of saltwater lagoon is an important ecological site for bird migration and is protected by the Ramsar Intergovernmental Convention on Wetlands. Along this picturesque coast full of birds, La Sultana is hidden behind large palm trees that rustle in the cool sea breeze.
style
La Sultana Oualidia is the more luxurious outpost of its namesake in Marrakech and is built in the traditional riad style. On the coast there are no enclosed courtyards or mosaic-tiled walls, but rather open spaces that bring nature inside. Inspired by the Moorish fortresses of the south, the stone structure is palatial and sturdy, with pointed arches, domed roofs, rustic floors and an eclectic collection of paintings.
While the main building looks traditional, the restaurant overlooking the lagoon and the S-shaped infinity pool have a pleasantly modern design. Immaculate white tablecloths are the canvas for Moroccan blue ceramics in the beach club-style restaurant, where you can enjoy oysters and a wine or two at leisure.
Surrounding the main building are manicured gardens brought to life by olive, orange and jacaranda trees. There are also 30 different species of palm trees that rustle with the slightest breeze and a large pond where koi swim.
Food & Drink
You might think tagine, but La Sultana is all about seafood. The menu features the freshest local ingredients, including local fish, lobster, crab, sea urchins and oysters. There are two restaurants, each specifically designed for daytime dining and elegant evening dining.
As the name suggests, La Table de La Plage sits next to the lagoon, where the sound of the waves entertains you as you crack open the lobster and slurp the oysters. In addition to a bountiful seafood selection, there are local dishes such as a samphire salad sourced from the estate’s shores.
Most of La Sultana’s vegetables are grown on an organic farm next to the hotel. Guests can stroll among beds of tomatoes, carrots, cabbage, lettuce and chilies and eat lunch on site. A table full of raw vegetables awaits you in a small shelter, served with hummus and baba ghanoush, quiche and freshly hatched eggs with a Greek salad. After lunch, a personal butler prepares fresh coffee and serves it with nut pastries to complete the meal.
La Table de La Sultana, the evening restaurant in a winter garden, serves fine cuisine with Moroccan and French influences. The menu includes hearty soups, other seafood and an extensive wine list to complement your choice of meat. Once a week there is a barbecue evening where food is served directly from the grill.
Facilities
There is no shortage of activities to do at La Sultana, both inside and outside the property. There are two very spacious swimming pools: the S-shaped infinity pool offers views of the lagoon, while in the spa area there is a large heated pool next to a whirlpool.
Morocco prides itself on its hammam treatments, and it’s worth indulging in these in the country. The expert practitioners envelop you in botanical mud packs and essential oils and scrub you from head to toe, peeling away layers of dirt and revealing baby-soft skin. The spa also offers a wide range of massages and facials.
Next to reception is a glass-ceilinged library with velvet-covered chairs and sunken sofas. It’s the ideal escape to immerse yourself in a book and leave the world outside. A selection of tomes in multiple languages adorn the walls alongside traditional artwork.
Experiences
The calm waters of the lagoon and the impressive waves of the Atlantic Ocean invite every mood. Kayak, canoe or paddleboard at your own pace, and if you’re feeling adventurous, challenge yourself on a surfboard and ride the ocean’s currents.
For a more calming experience, you can hop on a wooden fishing boat and go bird watching. Depending on the time of year, you can spot storks, egrets, egrets and cormorants and, if you’re lucky, even spot flamingos. There are seven oyster farms along the lagoon, producing 300 tons of shellfish each year. You will notice the underwater beds throughout the lagoon.
Which room
The main building, spread over three floors, has 11 suites, a spa and an indoor pool. All rooms, including the treehouse, are themed differently, but no matter which suite you choose, you’re guaranteed a cozy courtyard with a seawater hot tub and daybeds. The Panorama Suite has influences from Southeast Asia, while real branches form the centerpiece of the Treehouse Room.
Each room is tastefully decorated in pastel tones and natural fabrics and feels airy and open. It has a walk-in closet, a spacious bathroom and many windows that flood the rooms with light. Some rooms have better lagoon views than others, so it’s worth checking before booking. The best sunset views are from the Lagoon or Treehouse Suite.
Best for
La Sultana is perfect for couples or families looking to spend a few relaxing days after a trip to busier cities like Casablanca or Marrakech. With plenty of good food, this is also a destination for seafood lovers. There are several surfing beaches throughout Morocco, but if you’re looking for a quieter spot to learn or catch your latest waves, Oualidia is a good alternative.
Details
La Sultana is a three hour drive from Marrakech and a two and a half hour drive from Casablanca. La Sultana can arrange transportation from both airports.
Prices for bed and breakfast rooms start from £420. lasultanahotels.com
